It’s been some time since I’ve been to La Cité in Carcassonne, I probably got a bit “Carcassonned-out” during the first few years, visiting with most of family and friends who came to stay. So when I took family back to the airport at Carcassonne I decided to give it another go. It was as beautiful as ever, and as you can see from the pictures the skies had that bright blue quality which is almost unreal.
The car park at the top, nearest the Porte Narbonnaise, appeared to be closed for works, but I’d managed to park further down the road, just across from this gorgeous timber-framed building, and the stroll up the hill just makes the ramparts that more impressive. It was about 10.30am and the crowds were thronging already – it was French half term.
A little history about Carcassonne: the current fortress was built over an earlier Roman building and was besieged by Simon de Montfort during the Cathar crusades, and eventually taken in 1209. That was because the Viscount of Toulouse, Raymond de Trencavel, was sheltering Cathars and refused to hand them over – something had to be done about that!. The “new town” below La Cité was re-built as a bastide on the orders of Saint Louis in 1247, and then burnt down again by the black prince in 1355. The fortress was a stronghold along the Franco-Spanish border until the treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659, when it lost its importance. Economically, the chief commerce of Carcassonne was for centuries the production of woollen cloth. That market collapsed around 1780, but economic life of the town got a boost during the 19th century with new industries and wine growing.
Back to present day Carcassonne though. Once inside La Cité I took the street up to the Chateau Comtal and the inner ramparts. I’d been told that the visit of the Chateau included access to the top of the walls now, but once inside the courtyard I quickly abandoned the idea – the queues were just too long. I will go back some time when it’s not so busy to try that experience.
Instead I took the street to the left of the Chateau, and wandered down to the Porte d’Aude which gives access to the moat between the two rings of fortification. Today the moat is all flat and dry 😉 and a great way to experience the sheer size of the fortifications. There are also great views out over the Aude river and the Bastide St Louis.
Close to the Basilica Saint Nazaire there was another way into La Cité which might have been added later for the comfort of the more modern inhabitants – but I may be wrong.
Walking through the narrow streets I came to a square (Place Marcou) which was lined with restaurants pretty much all round, a bit like the food court you would find in a shopping mall, only outdoors and with a medieval feel to it. I decided on La Bonne Demeure, mostly because it had tables in the sun and had an OK lunch. I guess pretty much all the restaurants in Carcassonne will be serving average food, there’s just too much temptation to economise, too many customers and only so much in the way of competition. Don’t be put off though, the food and service were prefectly OK, and I’m sure there are exceptions. I’m going to look for those on my next visit. And if you visit Carcassonne, don’t forget the “new” town below La Cité – it’s well worth a visit and almost as old! What am I writing – if you visit Carcassonne? No, it should be when you visit Carcassonne!!
Cassoulet is one of those dishes which has a long tradition in the area, and Castelnaudary claims the authentic recipe along with a host of other towns and villages. When it comes to it though authenticity is not my yardstick – I rate a cassoulet by the way I enjoy it, and there’s one which I’ve enjoyed over and over: Brigitte’s at the Auberge de l’Ecole in Saint Jean de Minervois.
I went with a group of people not long ago, and Brigitte had prepared a simple menu around the cassoulet for us all. A simple salad of mixed leaves and goats cheese with pesto to start with, and Dame Blanche for dessert – ice cream with chocolate sauce. For the couple of non-meat eaters in our group she’d prepared some salmon filet with a potato cake, but the cassoulet was just divine, brought to the table bubbling and fragrant! Perhaps one of these days I may be able to persuade Brigitte to teach me how to make her version of Cassoulet…?
And here’s the gallery of all pictures in this post along with a lot which I’ve not inserted between the text – hope you enjoy this visit!