To walk off some of the excesses of the festive seasons I was invited by friends for a walk in Vendres. I’d not really explored Vendres before, but it’s right next door to Valras, and that’s probably why – for a quick trip to the Med I always head for Valras. Well, perhaps not next time. As with so many villages in the area, Vendres has a long history. The Romans liked the climate well enough to build there, and the remains of one villa can be seen just outside the village, We decided to explore…
On the map this spot is marked as the Temple de Venus but it seems that may not have been the case! So the walls we got to see were where the Romans took their baths. Seems that even Cassini got that one wrong. The map also marks a Source Sulfureuse, and whilst it was tempting to see whether the map would hold the promise of the sulphur spring, we decided to head south for the nature reserve and the marina. If you want to have a look at the map it can be found on the Geoportail website – highly informative and useful.
The boat was just by the remains of the baths, too picturesque to resist! On the way to the marina we found some more Roman artifacts – and they seemed extensive: the remains of an aqueduct. Fascinating, because what is still intact is not visible, and what can be seen is thoroughly broken. The first picture is of a collection or distribution point – unfortunately the panel explaining it all had disappeared.
We had to scramble up the hillside to get to it, but were repaid with wonderful views of the Etang de Vendres.
On the Geoportail website there is a possibility to overlay the current map with the map drawn up by Cassini in the 18th century, as well as a map from the 19th century, and it’s interesting to see how the size of the Etang has changed over the centuries, perhaps due to farming practices? The Port Conchylicole is also a fairly recent development – a great place for getting fresh mussels and oysters, and eating them right by the water. I’ll be back for that in the summer! Across the road from the car park by the side of the port is where the path into the nature reserve starts.
The Etang is a haven for migrating birds and other wildlife, so any of you keen on birdwatching should add this to your list of places to visit.
The connection to the next part of this post is somewhat tenuous to say the least. Right along the coast from Vendres, in Valras Plage, is a restaurant called Le Delphinium, and until a couple of years ago it was owned and run by Delphine and Louis Louro. When Delphine and Louis sold up they were going to open another restaurant along the Canal du Midi – and so we waited and waited, until finally last summer their new restaurant opened its doors in Colombiers. Their new venture, Au Lavoir, was well worth the wait!
Au Lavoir is both a restaurant and a Maison d’Hote with four bedrooms, by the Canal du Midi. The restaurant has a large courtyard for outdoor dining in the summer, and a spacious dining room for the rest of the year – all tastefully and comfortably furnished. BUT we want to know about the food! Summed up in one word: sublime. The first time I went was with friends and their children. The kids had a la carte and us adults had the blow out menu with a glass of wine with each course.
Starter was the most tender tuna fish
Then came a giant prawn with vegetable tagliatelle
Followed by pan-fried foie gras on a slice of apple
You can see that I’m not a very fast drinker
For main course there was roast pigeon
And then a cheese trolley to die for!
And as it was getting dark dessert arrived. Souffle au Grand Marnier
Louis came out to serve the desserts, and he slipped the ice cream and grand marnier into the souffle – no it does not collapse! And the combination is divine! AND so light at the end of the meal…
The children had the same starter, followed by roast rack of lamb, and then a chocolate dessert. They really were spoilt, and so were we 🙂 !