Earlier in the year I visited Limoux to experience the famous carnival. But Limoux is a town worth a visit at any time of year. The reason? A great drive, some wonderful architecture, AND sparkling wine! Legend has it that sparkling wine originated from the Abbey of Saint-Hilaire near Limoux and a first recorded mention of sparkling wine dates from 1531. The legend goes on to say that towards the end of the 16th century Dom Perignon stopped by the Abbey of Saint-Hilaire on a pilgrimage, and found out the secret of how to get the bubbles into the bottle, which he then applied to the wines in Champagne on his return there.
Strawberry Hill Vineyards in Gloucestershire, England has it on their site that an Englishman called Christoper Merrett was the inventor of the process as he published a paper on it in 1662. Wikipedia says that an Italian Doctor called Francesco Scacchi first wrote about the production of sparkling wine, and that Dom Perignon’s mission at his abbey in Hautevillers was to prevent the bubbles from forming in the wine. The more I read the more confusing it all gets – one of the problems with the internet of course…
But I digress. Limoux is along the banks of the river Aude, with the larger and perhaps older part on the west bank. At the top of Rue Jean Jaures, where you enter the old town proper, are gate piers, nicely reminding me of the fortified walls which would have been here at one point. As you walk down this road towards Place de la Republique you pass some beautiful facades such as this one.
This house must be ancient,yet the carvings are still crisp in most places. There was also a great shop window, and I have a feeling that they probably keep it going for some time!
The people in Limoux really live their Carnival, and work on it year round! Place de la Republique has arcades around three sides, which you can see in my Carnival post. Just a few steps from there is a church, which has been made over many times, but I found some interesting stone carvings in one of the side porches.
I wonder how long these guys have been there?
Walking through the narrow streets turned up a fair few interesting things. I guess the imprisoned door knocker was to stop kids from playing with it? Those iron grilles with the stylised cockerels are just amazing and I couldn’t pass by all those door knockers without taking a picture :-).
Recognize that house? Have a look at the second picture in this post, this is the reverse of the sign. Widow Tailhan on one side and Tournie and sons on the other – I wonder if they were related? After the walk I headed for the east bank of the river and to Maison Guinot – the oldest Blanquette house in Limoux, established in 1875. I first came across this producer back in 1998, when I bought their Blanquette for a birthday party, and I’ve been back a good few times since. If you want to find out more about the technicalities of what goes into Blanquette there are good articles on Wikipedia in English and French, the latter being the more exhaustive of the two.
The tasting room at Guinot is packed with cases of different Blanquettes, and the tasting is pretty interesting, the range is definitely worth a try, and I’m sure you’ll be able to find space for a bottle or maybe even a case or two. The website for Guinot has some lovely pictures from the cellars, and also information on their products. Sorry we can’t do virtual tastings over the net yet! The guided visits are by appointment only, but they do look pretty interesting – next time perhaps…
Of course alcohol should be consumed in moderation, and please don’t drink and drive!