Wine walks, such as the one I went on in Saint-Jean-de-Minervois a few years ago, are a great way to discover a “terroir”. Terroir is a French word that has no direct translation — its meaning encompasses geology, climate and location, and it mainly relates to agricultural land.
Last Sunday, I went on a walk organised by the Maison des Vins in Saint-Chinian, entitled Vins, Vignes & Terroirs, to discover wines, vineyards and terroirs!
The format for the event was that small groups would leave for their walks every 15 minutes from 9am to 11am, and that each group would be guided by a winemaker. I had chosen the 9.30am departure and our guide was Elisabeth Poux from Domaine de Pech-Menel. If you’ve been reading this blog for a while, you may remember the food and wine pairing dinner at restaurant Le Village a few years ago, where the wines were from Domaine Pech-Menel. You can find the post here.
Our little group of seven got kitted out at the Maison des Vins with hats and wine glasses in pouches which were to be hung around our necks. A list of the wines we were going to taste was also included in each of the pouches.
Elisabeth took us along the Avenue d’Assignan, and pointed out a typical example of a wine grower’s house, just opposite from where we turned onto Rue des Jardins. Along Rue des Jardins, she pointed out a former spinning mill, part of Saint-Chinian’s heritage from its days as a textile producing village.
The window surrounds on many buildings are made from stone which is typical of the Saint-Chinian geology: sandstone.
At the end of Rue des Jardins we left the village and headed for Les Platanettes, crossing the Canal de l’Abbe on the way and passing some of the walled gardens which are always impeccably tended!
We headed towards La Rive through the vineyards, under a bright blue sky! I was very grateful for the wide-brimmed straw hat! The vineyards were looking beautiful – lots of lush growth!
As we passed the building in the picture below, Elisabeth explained that many of the buildings that one sees dotted around the vineyards were used to house horses. Before the advent of tractors, the heavy work in the vineyards would have been horse-powered, and everything was geared towards that. Often the horses would be stabled in the vineyards for several days, so that they would not have to be walked to and from their regular homes every day.
After we crossed the river on a little iron bridge, we reached La Rive. Just before the first house on the left there are steps leading down to what looks like a small creek. Elisabeth explained that there is a spring there, and until not that long ago people would come to drink the water. I could just about make out the outlines of a basin, but it was all a bit overgrown and neglected.
On we went — after we had passed through La Rive we took a left turn and headed through the vineyards to where the first tasting booth was waiting for us in the shade of the trees!!
Marie Rouanet, who runs Domaine Saint-Cels with her husband Etienne, welcomed us with a selection of three different wines:
A white wine (Fleur de lin) from Domaine La Linquiere, a rose wine from Chateau la Dournie and a red wine from Domaine Saint-Cels. As we were tasting the wines, Marie passed around a plate of tapas – slices of toasted bread that were spread with tapenade and topped with grilled artichoke slices and sun-dried tomatoes.
After a big glass of water we set off once more. Our path took us along the Canal de l’Abbe, which was built in the Middle Ages and which supplied water to the many textile workshops in the village as well as water for irrigating the gardens. The textile workshops have all gone, but the gardens are still there. You can see part of one in the picture below.
The next part of our walk involved a stretch of uphill climbing – at times it was somewhat steep, but the effort was rewarded by the wonderful views!!
Once we got to the top, the path was fairly level for a little while, before climbing again. It was on the level bit that Elisabeth spotted the bee orchid!
The Spanish broom was in full flower and its perfume was heavenly!
After another steep-ish stretch we reached the top of the hill! There were more great views!
Our next stop was just around the corner!!
At the Capitelle de Seguin, Nellie Belot from the Maison des Vins was waiting for us with three more wines to taste:
The white wine came from Domaine de Pech-Menel, the winery of our guide Elisabeth Poux. The rosé wine was from the cooperative winery in Saint-Chinian, and the red wine was from Chateau du Pieure des Mourgues. There was another bite to eat with the wines, a miniature club sandwich, filled with smoked duck breast and fig chutney. All highly enjoyable!
After another glass of water, we paused for a group photograph with our guide, before continuing our walk.
Our path took us along the edge of the hill above Saint-Chinian, so the views were wide and sweeping!
Before too long the windmill came into view – we were headed there for the last tasting stop!
After a final climb we reached the windmill, where Nadia Bourgne from Domaine La Madura and Gaylord Burguiere from the Maison des Vins were waiting for us.
At this stop we tasted four wines!
The white wine was from Chateau Viranel, and the red wines were from Domaine Galtier, Mas Champart and Domaine Cathala. Gaylord had a lovely story to tell about the name of the wine from Mas Champart. The wine is called Cote d’Arbo after a Mr. Arbo, from whom Isabelle and Mathieu Campart bought the vineyards where the grapes for that particular cuvee are grown. Mr Arbo pushed his bike up the hill from Saint-Chinian every morning, to work in his vineyeard. After his day’s work he freewheeled down the hill!!
Our wine tasting by the windmill was accompanied by a toast topped with camembert cream – very yummy!! All the food we had eaten along the way was prepared by Vince’s Truck.
After we finished the tasting it was all down hill – literally!! 🙂
Our walk back down to the village took us across a former vineyard. I spied this flowering asphodel just before we got back onto a paved road.
Before long we were back at the Maison des Vins once more. I was a little tired but so happy to have been able to go on this walk! Thank you to all the people involved who made this possible!
Below is a map of the walk we took. The complete loop (starting and ending at the Maison des Vins) is approx 6.5 km long.